A Book Lover’s Dream: A Perfect Stay in Hay-on-Wye

Nestled on the border of Wales and England, Hay-on-Wye is a town like no other - a charming haven of cobbled lanes, stone cottages, and most famously, books. My recent trip to this literary paradise was everything I’d hoped for and more: tranquil, inspiring, and wonderfully rich in both character and characters.

Hay-on-Wye isn’t just famous - it’s legendary among bibliophiles. Known as “The Town of Books,” it’s home to over 20 bookshops, despite having a population of only around 1,500 people. From musty second-hand treasures to rare antiquarian tomes, Hay is a place where books spill out of old stone storefronts, repurposed chapels, and even from outdoor “honesty shelves” lining alleyways. It’s like walking through the pages of a living novel.

Every corner of the town invites curiosity. At Richard Booth’s Bookshop, one of the largest and most iconic, you can browse for hours, then relax with a coffee or lunch in the cozy on-site café. Booth, often called the "King of Hay," helped put the town on the map in the 1960s when he declared it an independent kingdom of books - a delightful eccentricity that still defines Hay's spirit today.

While the town is famous year-round, late May to early June brings the internationally acclaimed Hay Festival, a celebration of literature, arts, and ideas that attracts writers, thinkers, and readers from all over the world. Though my visit wasn’t during festival season, the literary spirit lingers - every bookshop owner is a storyteller, and every pub feels like it could be the setting of a novel.

The Swan at Hay

Staying at The Swan at Hay

Right in the heart of the village, we stayed at The Swan at Hay, a boutique hotel full of Georgian charm and modern comfort. Located just a short stroll from all the main bookshops and cafes, it’s ideally situated for exploring Hay by foot.

Our room was cozy, clean, and welcoming, with a large, soft bed, crisp linens, and a lovely view of the garden courtyard. The decor blended country charm with tasteful elegance - muted tones, wooden beams, and plush touches that made us feel at home right away. The bathroom was spotless, with a good walk-in shower and fluffy towels - small details that made a big difference after long days wandering dusty shelves.

The staff at The Swan were genuinely warm and helpful, always happy to offer tips on local walks, recommend shops, or help with bookings. One even drew us a walking route along the River Wye that led to a quiet meadow perfect for a picnic and a few chapters in the sun.

The hotel’s restaurant and bar were another highlight. Breakfasts were hearty - Welsh sausages, poached eggs, warm croissants, and excellent coffee - while dinner featured seasonal, locally sourced dishes. We had a superb lamb rump with garden vegetables one night, paired with a glass of red recommended by the barman, who clearly knew his wine.

Book your stay at The Swan here.

While books are the main draw, Hay-on-Wye is set in some of the most beautiful countryside in the UK. We took gentle walks along the River Wye, explored the ruins of Hay Castle (now partly restored and open to visitors), and browsed local craft shops and galleries.

There’s something about Hay’s pace that forces you to slow down - to read, to think, to reconnect with the physical world and its stories. Whether you’re lost in a first edition of Dylan Thomas or chatting with a local about their favorite ramble, time in Hay-on-Wye feels deeper, more nourishing.

Our trip to Hay-on-Wye was nothing short of magical. From the literary charm of the book-laden streets to the warm hospitality at The Swan at Hay, it was a perfect blend of relaxation, inspiration, and old-world wonder.

If you love books, beauty, and a touch of whimsy, Hay-on-Wye is not just a destination - it’s a dream.

Words by Sal F.